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Browsing tag: travel

  • November 19, 2013

    Safe travels? Yeah, nah

    safe travels nzmuse rtw

    There’s something about the cover of night that lends a sinister air to, well, just about anything. Like when I’m out for an evening run and the sun sets faster than I expected, I find myself picking up the pace just a little, hoping to beat darkness home.

    A few weeks before we left for our trip, I was walking through downtown at night. I saw a swarthy, scruffy looking guy approach a young girl at the bus stop. I was walking past at the time, but I slowed down and kept looking over my shoulder to see what was happening, relaxing only once he walked away. I don’t know what I would’ve done if he’d tried anything – screamed? Rushed back to confront him? – but I felt somewhat obligated to keep an eye on that particular encounter.

    In KL I was urged not to make the 5-10 minute walk to Times Square from our hotel alone by my friend. My parents, who still keep up with headlines back in Malaysia, always seem to be relaying news of some stabbing, kidnapping or home invasion.

    In Bangkok, and Naples, and Athens, I always heeded my aunt’s warning to hold my bag close to my body. Busy spots like Times Square and the Trevi Fountain always seemed like prime spots for pick pocketers to haunt. I never went as far as to carry a fake wallet to deter any would-be muggers, though.

    In six months away, however, I never once felt actively uneasy about my personal safety. That may have had something to do with the fact I almost always had T with me, who cuts a reasonably imposing figure. I definitely looked like a tourist, with my camera, day pack, and often, my trusty zipoff travel pants. It’s probably worth noting that we didn’t venture into any ‘dangerous’ territory, sticking to stable, fairly popular destinations. Safe travel is much easier when you follow well worn trails.

    I have to admit that we took a few risks, getting more and more lax towards the end. The more cautious traveller might lug a laptop around all day in tropical heat; we almost always left ours back in our hotel rooms, many of which didn’t have safety deposit boxes. In the US, I stopped wearing my passport pouch under my clothes, leaving it in my bag instead (I did have digital and paper backups of the important pages, though).

    You always think that these are things that happen to other people. Even to experienced travellers, sometimes! In hindsight, there really was no excuse for my slacking off. I am immensely grateful that we had such good luck with weather, political stability (no riots, uprisings, and no real impact from the US government shutdown) and safety. The closest we got to any whiff of crime was Sunday brunch at a restaurant about a block away from this shooting in San Francisco.

    So when I’m asked about any mishaps we had along the way, really, the worst I have to point to is the infamous ceiling fan incident. It could be worse.

    Do you have any travel horror stories to impart?

  • November 11, 2013

    The kindness of strangers…

    is absolutely astounding.

    I envisioned couchsurfing across Europe; we ended up hostelling and hoteling. (We did surf a few times though, and hosts generously drove us to the train station/lent us bikes/gave up their beds for us). I then envisioned us couchsurfing across North America, and instead, we ended up staying with so many generous blog friends. Not to mention the many others who took the time to show us around, take us out to eat, or put together adorable goody bags/welcome packs for us.

    We also miss your pets! We’ve met so many awesome dogs along the way, which was such an eye-opener for me; to date, almost all the dogs I’ve ever encountered back home are outside dogs that belong to, erm, Westie trash types and fall into one or more of the following categories: dirty/mangy/loud/ill-behaved/scary. By contrast, I now know that clean, housetrained, inside dogs DO exist.

    I think it was a little weird for T, but he quickly got used to the idea that we’d be meeting semi-strangers in almost every city we visited. There was Manda in DC, Sandy in Massachussetts, Asian Pear / Save Spend Splurge in Toronto, Windy City Gal in Chicago, Athena / Funny About Money in Phoenix, Revanche / Untemplater / Financial Samurai in SF, Tiny Apartment / Erika / Stacking Pennies / Tonya in LA. I can’t forget Lesley in Iceland (formerly of 23toLife.com), either, plus we narrowly missed a few others along the way (so close!): Leslie, Amber, Daisy, Katie, Stephanie (I’m really hoping I haven’t forgotten anyone! Eek!)

    I can’t thank you guys enough, and hopefully we’ll be able to return one day to relive the magic. It’s probably going to be quite awhile before we leave NZ again though … so, come see us soon. Okay?

  • November 5, 2013

    The end of the road

    white sands national park

    “What happens when we go home? Do we just work till we die?”
    (October 21, 2013, filed under Shit My Husband Says)

    For the past six months, I’ve lived in a perpetual state of flux. I’ve never known what the week ahead will bring, let alone what lies in store for us the next day. I’ve gotten pretty comfortable with uncertainty, and now, it’s time to get used to routine again. To get up in the morning knowing, more or less, what to expect from the coming 24 hours.

    I’m not unhappy about that. I could use some structure again. I want some of the conventional things that society dictates I should want, and I’m not ashamed to admit it: a steady income, a house of my own, maybe even a pet and kids someday.

    What I don’t want is to sink into mundanity. The older you get, the faster the time seems to go, and I don’t want to lose precious weeks or days to a forgettable rote existence. I want to make memories, not just once a year, but throughout the year. A life that doesn’t warrant escape. One without the Monday blues. And I want this for both T and myself, with the knowledge that I’m much further along this path than he is, and that it’ll take work to craft that mutually happy existence.

    If our priorities change, a few months or a few years from now, then maybe we could do this again. Work and save for a few years, travel for a while, then come home, rinse and repeat. Maybe we can craft a lifestyle where we work for 10 months a year and travel for 2. Or maybe we’ll choose the traditional middle-class route, and treasure the memory of the last six months like a precious stone, bringing it out every so often to admire, polish, and remind ourselves that once upon a time we were young and carefree with the whole world in front of us.

    Work till we die, or work till we retire. Sound depressing? In a sense, it is … but it’s only a terrifying thought if we fail to make the most of life in between – in our careers, in our relationships, in our hobbies.

  • October 29, 2013

    New York, you are glorious

    Residents of New York City, I envy you.

    I’m not going to drop the “Oh, you’re so lucky to live here!” line. I understand that for most of you, it’s not a matter of luck; it’s a matter of hustling and sacrifice and trade-offs.

    In another life, New York City would be the place for me. One where a less risk-averse version of myself would make the leap, like one of my high school friends recently did (with success! Unfortunately we couldn’t meet up while we were in town). That might sound strange considering I made the choice to travel for six months, but moving abroad with no job prospects is a heck of a lot scarier in my book.

    There are no words that adequately describe this city. I felt so overwhelmingly lucky to be there every minute, from deli-hopping in Brooklyn to sushi in the East Village, to strolling Astoria, Chinatown, and the mad buzz that is Times Square.

    I will remember New York in snippets: BBQ. Shake Shack. Food carts. Dumpling festival. Karaoke. The Highline. Central Park, complete with strains of Kings of Leon (playing Global Citizen Festival) and a softball game that nearly devolved into a fight.

    nyc subway 49 street stop

    street art nyc

    street art nyc

    keep calm and read on new york public library

    arthur new york public library

    nyc architecture

    nyc architecture empire state building

    couple in boat central park

    nyc church broadway lit up green

    nyc architecture ny times building

    nyc architecture

    nyc architecture

    nyc architecture skyline

    statue of liberty from staten island ferry

  • October 24, 2013

    The great US road trip: Oddities and observations so far

    beale st memphis tennessee at night

    There are many things we love about the USA. Here’s a few off the top of my head:

    • The low, low prices.
    • Free drink refills.
    • The vast variety of cuisines available.
    • The fact that everyone speaks English (a relief after so long in Europe … though admittedly we’ve been totally stumped more than once in the South by the accents and been left staring blankly at the person addressing us).
    • The customer service! It’s true: Kiwis are usually ridiculously passive and reluctant to speak up. Thank you Pear for salvaging T’s burrito situation in Toronto; remaining silent in dining out situations is just how we roll (see this blog and comment thread for proof) and we should probably work on that.

    But there are some … oddities we’ve encountered, some of which are interesting quirks, and some we’re not so fond of.

    Tyre pieces all over the highways

    It all came together for us when we were driving directly behind a truck somewhere in southern Illinois. One of its back tyres popped and came flying in our direction. Luckily, we were able to change lanes and avoid the debris.

    Petrol stations requiring you to enter your zip code

    I have a freaking PIN number on my card. That should be enough authorisation. I can’t enter my NZ zip code as they’re only 4 digits, and entering 00000 doesn’t fly either.

    Voting for a local traffic court judge

    Yeah … this is a totally alien idea for us. It took me a little while to figure out what all the signs around New Orleans were for.

    The prevalence of cheque cashing/payday loan outlets

    The concept of being ‘unbanked’ is another incredibly alien one. I doubt you could exist in NZ without a bank account. All companies (to my knowledge) pay staff electronically, and usually that goes for freelancers too. The government also pays out benefits electronically.

    ETA: Oddly enough, just as I was writing this post, we were watching New Girl – and it was the episode in which Nick, one of the great unbanked, goes to open up a bank account.

    Taxes

    I get that there are all sorts of problems that make it difficult/impossible to just list the final, tax-included price for items. But seriously, as a consumer, it’s a massive pain.

    A Couchsurfing guest we had once expressed shock that we pay rent weekly (by and large) in NZ (and always electronically). That would never fly in the US, he said. It’s so inefficient. Well, to the untrained Kiwi eye, this tax bizzo is your equivalent inefficiency.

    Tipping

    Okay, it’s official: I hate tipping. I’ve always been of the mindset that waitstaff should just be paid a decent wage – but hey, I’m from New Zealand, and it’s a totally different culture. I know I praised the customer service up in my first paragraph, but the problem is when it goes too far. And too often, that’s exactly what happens. Tipping seems to have bred a uniquely overzealous type of server: either chirpily subservient, or the greasy schmooze. Both make me feel uncomfortable in different ways. Either way, it’s downright annoying being ‘checked on’ every five minutes.

    Honestly, I’ve never had substandard service while eating out back home, even minus the tipping culture. What I WOULD support is tipping for better customer service over the phone – I would be down for that if it could be facilitated. (You know what I’m talking about – there’s nothing worse than having to call your internet/power/insurance company.)

    Everything is crazy sweet

    I used to have a heinous sweet tooth. A couple of days here quickly cured me of that. Now, I walk down the snack aisle and feel absolutely nothing as I cast my eye over the shelves. In fact, I feel … revulsion, almost. A month ago, I would have been all “OMG cookies with Reese’s pieces! Must buy three packs!” Now I would be perfectly happy to never consume another peanut butter cup, another sweet cereal, another Oreo. I couldn’t finish any single dessert item from our hotel buffet in Vegas last night, so you KNOW this shiz is serious. (Also, please. Stop sweetening your potato salad and coleslaw! I’m now scared to eat any creamy salads at all.)

  • October 22, 2013

    Guidebooks and vaccinations – do you really need ’em?

    Who needs them anyway?

     

    Guidebooks

    Seriously, all of my travel research and planning has been done online. I compiled some must-sees and recommendations in Evernote before we departed, and referred back to them when we were in the corresponding country. On the road, the Triposo app has been a lifesaver.  I download guides for each city in advance, so I can access them offline. Even offline, you can use the city maps, and it will pick up and track your location (you’ll never get lost). It pulls in information and ratings from sites like Wiki and Yelp, offering ideas for sightseeing, places to eat and stay, and background on each destination, as well as the latest exchange rates, weather, local phrasebook and current time. For big cities, it usually includes a metro map. For free.

    The problem with guidebooks is that information can be out of date by the time they go to print. Places close down, move elsewhere, or get pricier and more mediocre through complacency. I’ve learned to always seek out the most recent reviews and details online. Too often, I’ve been disappointed by places touted as the ‘must dos’. Personal recommendations and Yelp have yielded better results, especially for hole-in-the-wall type establishments. I’m not saying that long waiting lines and bulging crowds are always a bad sign, but they’re not always a good one, either.

    As it turns out, overplanning stresses me out. When I feel I have an enormous list of sights to see and restaurants to hit, I really can’t enjoy myself. I need to pick just a few priorities, and then leave myself room to wander, snap photos and be a sponge.


    Vaccinations

    I meant to get us both all our shots before leaving. I honestly did. I wasn’t worried about Europe or North America, but I was a bit concerned about south east Asia. Thing is, between wedding madness, moving madness, and winding up work madness, I left it to T to organise this (he has a family doctor and I don’t, which is something I need to sort out at some point).  Before I knew it, we were less than two weeks out and at that point, I threw my hands up. We weren’t travelling off the beaten track, and the odds of getting malaria in the main cities were low.

    We took a gamble, and made it through without any serious illness. I wouldn’t recommend this for everyone, but I am now on the side of those who reckon it’s up to you to weigh up whether the expense/hassle is worth it, based on where you’re travelling and your general state of health.

    I’m curious: what’s your stance on either/both of the above?

  • October 17, 2013

    RTW budget: What it costs to travel in the UK/Western Europe

    what it costs to travel around the world nzmuse rtw

    RTW BUDGET BREAKDOWN WHAT IT COSTS TO TRAVEL IN EUROPE

    Aside from cities like Berlin and Athens, Europe was pricey. I was constantly asking myself, is this a YOLO purchase? Is it a big thing that is going to enrich our memories for years to come? Is it a small comfort that will make the heat and exhaustion today that much more bearable? Is it something forgettable that I would enter into our spending log and struggle to recall an hour later?

    We had a few days under budget … and a lot more over. Which is not unexpected by any means, but it’s a little embarrassing to fess up to. We may be backpackers, but we are not hardcore. I would rather hustle harder to make more money than subsist on crackers and bananas (particularly in Italy! Oh, the food!) or miss out on certain experiences.

    And while trains aren’t always the cheapest way to get around if you’re willing to plan ahead, having the flexibility to hop on and off with our Eurail passes has been fantastic. We can extend stays in places we like and move on when ready. Our Munich host kept suggesting we hitchhike around (and indeed we’ve met a lot of people who have the most amazing hitching stories) during our email exchanges, but once he saw us in person, he changed his tune. I can’t imagine anyone who would ever stop to pick up someone of T’s size.

    You know I’m not a hardcore budgeter, so although I was all gung-ho about sticking to a strict daily cash allotment (envelope method, anyone?) that just did not happen. Not my style – never was and never will be.

    As always, spending is for both of us in NZ dollars. Our priority was food – you might even say we had almost a mid-range food budget, so much did we spend on filling our bellies – whereas we skimped on accommodation where possible. Flights, insurance etc aren’t included (you can see how much we spent pre-departure here). I’ll be doing a monster budget breakdown at the end of the whole trip and will answer any questions you have then…

    June

    While most of June was spent in Vietnam, we also made our move from Asia to Europe, starting with a few lovely but expensive days in the UK.

    Bangkok/London

    June 20 – $157.04 (including Heathrow Connect train from Heathrow)

    London
    June 21 – $230.28 (including London Eye)
    June 22 – $134.16
    June 23 – $385.58 (including buying train tickets to Edinburgh)
    June 24 – $42.25 (the day we actually took the train, saving on accommodation)

    Edinburgh
    June 25 – $150.38
    June 26 – $160.19
    June 27 – $130.16

    Belgium

    June 28 – $193.28 (including ridiculously expensive bus tickets from Charleroi airport)

    Amsterdam

    June 29 – $233.80 (accommodation was a killer – 80 euros for two in peak season)
    June 30 – $217.81 (ditto)

    July

    July was a full month in Europe, and even with a free week (thanks to hosts and to volunteering) we still spent a whopping $4675.82. Splurges included a gondola ride in Venice, BMW hire in Munich, canyoning in Switzerland, and of course, a lot of delicious Italian food. Food made up the majority of our spending at 33 percent, followed by accommodation at 30 percent, transport at 17 percent and entertainment at 16 percent.

    Berlin

    July 1 – $92.14
    July 2 – 109.68
    July 3 – $42.15 (free accommodation through Hospitality Club)
    July 4 – $43.09 (ditto)

    Prague

    July 5 – $69.12
    July 6 – $131.47 (expensive accommodation on the 2nd night)
    July 7 – $226.06 (simply because I allocated the purchase of Berlin-Prague bus tickets to this day, but I actually bought them a few days earlier)

    Berlin

    July 8 – $27.01 (again, free hosting)

    Munich

    July 9 – $82.88 (free accommodation through Hospitality Club)
    July 10 – $23.83 (ditto)
    July 11 – $0 (ditto)
    July 12 – $344.15 (BMW rental)
    July 13 – $238.38 (expensive accommodation in Munich)
    July 14 – $5.82 (first day of Englischhausen volunteering in the Black Forest)
    July 15 – $0
    July 17 – $0
    July 18 – $0
    July 19 – $269.10 (expensive Munich accommodation, plus settling our drinks and wifi charges from Englischhausen)

    Switzerland

    July 20 – $241.90 (expensive Swiss hostel and expensive Swiss food)
    July 21 – $202.98 (ditto)
    July 22 – $512.83 (ditto, plus $300 for T’s canyoning trip)

    Bologna

    July 23 – $116.14
    July 24 – $168.41 (including laundry)
    July 25 – $142.46
    July 26 – $112.11

    Venice

    July 27 – $427.57 (including $70 on train tickets and $150 on a gondola ride)

    Rome

    July 28 – $203.51 (glorious, glorious food)
    July 29 – $156.24

    Greece

    July 30 – $132.78 (including bus to Rome airport and train from Athens airport)
    July 31 $554.11 (including Acropolis tickets and 239 euros for ferry tickets to Santorini)



    Booking.com

    August

    August was another full month in Europe, most of it in Italy, but a relatively frugal one. We spent $2423.68 although half of the month was spent volunteering on a farm. We could have spent less on food for sure, but who goes to Italy to NOT experience all its culinary delights? Food clocked in at 41 percent of spending, accommodation at 37 percent, transport at 14 percent and entertainment at 5 percent.

    Athens

    August 1 – $81.57

    Santorini

    August 2 – $202.33 (including quad rental, petrol)
    August 3 $194.30 (ditto)
    August 4 – $136.55 (including laundry)
    August 5 – $124.08

    Athens

    August 6 – $102.48

    Rome

    August 7 – $146.07 (including bus transfer from airport)
    August 8 – $160.84
    August 9 – $132.94

    Salerno

    August 10 – $125.05 (including train tickets to Salerno)
    August 11 – $172.54 (including ferry and bus tickets to/from Amalfi)
    August 12 – $131.63 (including bus tickets to Naples)

    Naples

    August 13 – $92.50
    August 14 – $115.54
    August 15 – $135.59 (including Naples museum entry)
    August 16 – $147.22

    Cerveteri (where we stayed for free while working on the farm)

    August 17 – $87.48 (including new plug adaptor, train tickets from Rome to Palidoro)
    August 18 – $0
    August 19- $0
    August 20- $0
    August 21- $0
    August 22- $0
    August 23 – $0
    August 24 – $9.85 (beer)
    August 25 – $0
    August 26 – $0
    August 27 – $0
    August 28 – $50.88 (groceries)
    August 29 – $0
    August 30 – $0
    August 31 – $73.86 (a night out on the town)

    September

    September took us from the farm to Paris and to Iceland.

    Cerveteri

    September 1 – $0
    September 2 – $0
    September 3 – $0
    September 4 – $0
    September 5 – $0
    September 6 – $99.51 (a day trip to nearby Viterbo)
    September 7 – $24.62 (T’s night out on the town)

    Paris

    September 10 – $151.97 – (including bus from the airport)
    September 11 – $173.04 (including laundry)
    September 12 – $106.03
    September 13 – $102.61
    September 14 – $113.20
    September 15 – $112.45
    September 16 – $66.05
    September 17 – $117.38

    London

    September 18 – $211.02 (free accommodation with friends, but Eurostar tickets for two – total 77 pounds – pushed us over)

    Iceland

    September 19 – $226.17 (free accommodation through Couchsurfing, but car rental, petrol and food pushed us over)
    September 20 – $162.89 (ditto)
    September 21 – $159.29 (ditto)

    All in all, that averages out to a daily total of $117 – which is actually a heck of a lot closer to $100 than I expected to get.

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