Hoi An: Resistance is futile

Calligraphic art on show in Hoi An

You might be in two minds about Hoi An, dithering about whether it’s worth a stop or not. After all, it’s not the easiest town to get to.

Sure, there are open tour buses that stop there, and fares are crazy cheap – maybe $10 – but the horror stories online, combined with your experience of long distance bus rides and what you’ve seen so far of Vietnamese roads, might seriously put you off.

The train from Saigon to nearby Danang doesn’t come cheap, at more than $50 a ticket, and a berth split with two elderly Vietnamese women who don’t look overly impressed by having to share with these foreigners and spend most of their time ‘whispering’ to each other. (It’s okay; we have no idea what you’re saying, so covering up your mouths and speaking into each other’s ears without dropping the volume one notch makes zero difference, ladies.) But at least it’s comfortable, and that is (almost) priceless for your 6’2 husband.

Then there’s actually getting to Hoi An from the train station. As per usual, we seem to be travelling the wrong way; the trip to Hoi An apparently costs twice what it would if you were travelling from Hoi An. I’d armed myself with all the information I could find about catching the cheap public bus, but with comfort and convenience in mind, we end up forking over $20 for a taxi.

Once you reach Hoi An, though? It’s completely, unquestioningly worth it.

True, while the ancient buildings have been physically preserved yet turned into rows of “same same” (to borrow a phrase) shops, there’s still an overarching old world charm that permeates.

Ancient but colourful buildings in Hoi An Ancient but colourful buildings in Hoi An Ancient but colourful buildings in Hoi An Ancient but colourful buildings in Hoi An Old Hoi An temple
IMG_8479bb Old buildings in Hoi An

Women (always women) presiding over their clothing shops and restaurants. Dogs ambling down the streets, or sitting dead still on the sidewalks. Vibrant galleries and bins of broken porcelain. Soothing music piped through the streets, punctuated by late afternoon public announcements that the motorbike ban is about to end.

Cheap delicious food abounds, especially the local specialty, cao lau (noodles). Oddly, the eateries seem to either embrace you, doing all they can to reel you in, or practically ignore you, leaving you to find your own seat and wait 10 minutes for service.

Hoi An rough riverside
Ancient but colourful buildings in Hoi An Ancient but colourful buildings in Hoi An A new church in Hoi An Street artist in Hoi An
Hoi An river at night

At night, they come out to play. The bridge is a beacon in the dark, packed with tourists jostling for photos and local kids on blades and bikes. Candles, lanterns, and portraits for sale all along the riverbank. Public performances at the corner pavilion. Music from the moored boats, where you might be able to make out singalongs to old English tunes.

Colourful lanterns - Hoi An markets Hoi An river at night Hoi An river at night

It’s all a show, really, but it doesn’t make it any less magical.

My Hoi An recommendations

Where to stay

Phuong Dong Hotel. Book directly through the website. It’s inexpensive yet clean and airy, located reasonably close to the action. Our last hotel in Saigon was meant to have a bathtub but didn’t; finding one in our room here was an unexpected surprise.

Where to drink

Buy drinks from street stalls, your room fridge, even restaurants. For some reason, water, fizzy, and iced tea actually costs more at the minimarts.

We also found a bar along the riverside that sold 65,000 dong cocktail buckets (under $4). Bargain.

Where to eat

Tran Cao Van is home to Lucky Cafe, which is run by Aussie NGO MAD Indochina and works with Vietnamese youth, serving up a mix of Western and Asian food. The menu is massive, though I really only went there for bacon baguettes on T’s behalf.

Across the road, you’ll find the Banh Mi queen, Madam Khanh, who claims to be the best in Hoi An. I went straight there and never had banh mi anywhere else. Freaking fantastic. And for some reason, I got extra meat added to mine after they found out I was from Malaysia. The downside? You won’t be able to stomach banh mi in any other town afterward – inferior versions that don’t hold a candle to the Madam’s.

Around the corner on Thai Phien are some streetside food stalls. I tried two different ones, both of which served up amazing bowls of fresh noodles. Take a look, see what tickles your fancy.

Toward the river, Trung Bac on Tran Phu was also excellent, and be sure to grab a scoop of homemade ice cream at the Art Cafe and Pizzeria right on the waterfront.

10 thoughts on “Hoi An: Resistance is futile

  • Reply Amanda @ Gourmanda June 18, 2013 at 10:52

    I spent four days in Hoi An last December, and wasn’t feeling well for two of them, so my experience was marred a bit…there are some gorgeous parts in the town, but a lot of it I found quite touristy (like you said with the restored buildings with tourist-oriented shops). The food is divine though!

    • Reply eemusings June 21, 2013 at 17:37

      Yes, T was sick for most of Hoi An too, which is why we extended our stay there. Not that I minded – such a sweet little town.

  • Reply Sense June 18, 2013 at 17:59

    Oooh, how pretty with the lanterns!! Sounds like you guys are hitting your groove on the road. How does it feel?? Whenever I travel I never want to stop. 🙂

    Also, if you don’t mind indulging a sheltered Westerner, can you explain what some of the food is in a post? Banh mi, for example…

    • Reply eemusings June 21, 2013 at 17:36

      Sorry, I thought banh mi was pretty universal! Vietnamese sandwiches (kinda like their equivalent of Subway) – you get them at home in NZ too.

  • Reply oilandgarlic June 19, 2013 at 03:21

    I love those lanterns!

  • Reply femmefrugality June 19, 2013 at 05:46

    Gems like this are what makes travel! The fact that it’s so difficult to go would, I imagine, make it a lot less touristy? Looks like such an amazing place!

  • Reply Linda June 19, 2013 at 06:43

    Beautiful photos!

    I noticed that the houses/apartments don’t seem to have screens. Are there no flying insects in Vietnam?

  • Reply Lindsey @ Cents & Sensibility June 19, 2013 at 07:29

    What an amazing looking city! It almost seems to have two different kinds of lives – the night and day. Very cool – it’s really neat to read about your experiences through different countries. Right now I can live vicariously through you while I pay down some debt! Once I’m done with this in four years – world look out, I’m coming for you!

  • Reply Mike@WeOnlyDoThisOnce June 19, 2013 at 09:18

    Oof, I pity your husband with those small seats, being a tall traveller myself! Sounds amazing and worth it, though.

  • Reply Manda June 21, 2013 at 01:28

    I loved Hoi An! I had a beautiful dress tailored there that I wore to my senior year formal in college. I also bought some beautiful earrings off the street. Whenever I wear them, I always think back to those steamy days in Hoi An where my boyfriend and I had no care in the world but to wander as much as we wanted!

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