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  • Oh snap. My favourite photos from 2013

    Anyone else still struggling to catch up to 2014? Let’s cling to the past together in this week’s Foto Friday.

    distrito restaurant scottsdale arizona

    Snapped in Scottsdale with my blogging buddy Athena! I adore the colours and the framing.

    Gothic Belford Hostel in an old church in Edinburgh, Scotland

    The kickass Belford Hostel in Edinburgh, housed in an old church and oozing with character.

    new orleans wagon 

    No single photo can accurately sum up the vibe of New Orleans, unfortunately.

    Tiger roaring at Chicago zoo 

    I’ll never forget the roar of this tiger at Chicago’s Lincoln Park Zoo. 

    Arizona painted cliffs - NZMUSE

    I am head over heels for the striated colours that punctuate the Arizona desert.

    The magical, mystical white sands in New Mexico - hut included

    I love all my photos from the otherworldly White Sands like children, so picking this shot was kind of a crapshoot.

    Massachussetts fall colours - Blood red fall leaves, when New England turns crimson

    Massachusetts in autumn needs no introduction.

    Iceland mini horses at golden circle gullfoss

    Icelandic horses FTW!

    italy red purple sunset streaked sky

    The sunsets in Italy restore your faith in the world. 

    colosseum in rome lit up by night nzmuse

    The Colosseum is infinitely more impressive by night. 

    purple bike orange building viterbo

    I just had to capture this scene in Viterbo.

    Santorini buildings

    It is truly impossible to take a bad photo on Santorini.

    Dancing house in prague with red tram - NZMuse

    Prague’s Dancing House; the tram happened to come along at just the right time and complete the image.

    Ballerina in a gritty London skatepark - Southwark

    Ballerina meets skate park in London

    amazing cave halong bay vietnam colours

    Vietnam’s Amazing Cave is proof that Mother Nature is a BAMF.

    carved bamboo sticks in hue vietnam

    Some things are the same all over the world, as I found in this tranquil wee spot near a monastery in Hue.

    hoi an ink drawings

    Hoi An is like that charming boy Ryan Gosling in Crazy Stupid Love.

    cambodia night market lights on water nzmuseSiem Reap’s sultry side.

    koh lanta boat rock sky nzmuse

    A day cruising the Thai islands is never wasted.

  • When you gotta go, you gotta go…

    Our time in New York was far too short. We walked, and walked, and walked. Caught the subway a lot (we had a 7-day pass) but mostly, we walked. And as we quickly learned, New York City is not big on public toilets.

    Sure, there are toilets in malls but we weren’t there for the shopping, and were generally never near one (least of all when the need to pee struck). The Times Square one closes at night; the ones in Central Park are always packed. There were a lot of Cokes bought at various McDonald’s just so we could nip into the bathroom like schmucks.

    Following on from yesterday’s post about what to do in Auckland, I thought I might put together a quick post about finding toilets in the city off the top of my head.

    My ‘favourite toilet in Auckland city’ award goes to … Smith and Caughey’s, level one. That’s the big department store on Queen St, just down from the Civic theatre and across from JB Hi-Fi.

    Another good option is the toilets at the cinema. Before I discovered Smith and Caughey’s, this was my go-to, even before I actually worked at the movies. They’re around the back behind the ticket counters, which are up a couple of levels from the ground floor.

    Down at the harbour end of Queen St, there’s Britomart. Admittedly I haven’t been to the train station in awhile, but the facilities always used to be pretty good. They’re down a level or two and tucked away behind around the escalators.

    There are also lots of public toilets in town (surprisingly way more than I thought!) though I can’t vouch for any of them. Refer to http://www.toiletmap.co.nz/ for more, which lists them on a handy dandy map.

    What cities are the best/worst for public toilets? (Paris actually caters really well in this regard, IMO.) Aucklanders, any other lesser-known toilets to add?

  • What to do when visiting Auckland

    What to do when visiting Auckland - the ultimate guide

    One thing you quickly learn when travelling is that locals are invariably keen to show you around their stomping ground. I’m the same way. There’s lots of things that frustrate me about living in Auckland/New Zealand (and by jove do I invoke the rights to voice them over and over again), but I always get super excited when I hear someone is coming to visit.

    The fact is, nobody comes to New Zealand for the cities. You come for the outdoors. The Lord of the Rings scenery. The lakes, the bush, the mountains. To hike, ski, surf, skydive.

    But odds are you’ll fly into Auckland, and though we may not have amazing shopping or eating or weather, we have some reasonably cool things to keep you occupied at least for a day or two.

    I was shocked (MULLETED!) to learn from Solo Wayfarer, who recently stopped through, that Lonely Planet recommends the Waikumete Cemetery in West Auckland. This is not Paris, or New Orleans, where at least there are legit reasons to go visit the graveyards … I know Auckland isn’t the most exciting metropolis in the world, but I promise, we have more interesting sights to offer. I’m not going to present an itinerary here, because travel is so highly individual, but I have attempted to put together a shopping list, if you like, of various points of interest in Auckland. Mix and match! Then come visit!

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    In the CBD

    Waterfront – you can’t visit without strolling the harbour. Check out Silo Park, Queen’s Wharf, etc
    Britomart -not just a downtown station anymore, it’s a somewhat lively hub of shops and stuff
    Queen St – our main drag, and some of the side streets like Vulcan Lane and High St
    Aotea Square – take the obligatory photo with the Maori arch and snap the Town Hall next door
    SkyCity – I’ve never been up it, but it’s one of those touristy (and expensive) things to do
    Albert Park – it sure ain’t Central Park, but it’s our little oasis of green
    Victoria Park Market – another shopping area that’s recently been revitalised

    colourful flowerbeds cornwall park auckland

    view from crater mt eden auckland

    Volcanoes

    We got a few of these. The most famous are:

    Mt Eden – with the panoramic views and deep crater we used to play in as kids
    One Tree Hill – now No Tree Hill, and surrounding Cornwall Park

    Shopping

    I can’t imagine why any international visitors would want to shop in Auckland, but if you do, you could try:

    Ponsonby – hip cafes and boutiques
    Newmarket – our equivalent of Fifth Avenue?
    Parnell – a historic area that retains a village feel

    Museums

    Auckland Art Gallery
    Auckland Museum
    Maritime Museum
    MOTAT

    la cigale market baklava

    Weekly markets

    La Cigalethe best thing about Parnell is this French style market
    Otara – THE flea market in Auckland
    Avondale – a close runner up
    Clevedon – a little slice of country and an awesome farmer’s market
    Auckland Night Markets – at various locations

    Gardens/Parks

    Auckland Domain/Wintergarden 
    Parnell Rose Garden 
    Western Springs – bring some bread to feed the birds!

    Ferries

    If you’ve got a little cash to spare, catch a ferry to:

    Waiheke – you might spot sea life on the way across. Once you’re there, walk or bike around, drink some wine, take tons of photos
    Devonport – a quaint little neighbourhood on the North Shore, a much shorter ride but you’ll still get lovely harbour views
    Rangitoto- for a rugged day outdoors exploring on foot (or 4WD)

    waterfall karekare

    Wild wild west

    The best of the west can be summed up in three words: Beach. Bush. Waterfalls.

    Think black sand, big surf, dramatic cliffs and rocks. Raw and majestic. It’s never as busy here as it is at, say, Mission Bay or Long Bay, which is awesome. The main beach is Piha, with Karekare right next door. Bethell’s, Muriwai and Whatipu are even less crowded options. There are plenty of walking/tramping tracks around, which’ll take you winding through the bush and often to waterfalls and waterholes. So worth it if you have time.

    tawharanui

    A little further afield: the idyllic north

    Matakana – a charming little town with a farmer’s market, pubs and a divine ice cream place
    Puhoi – where you must visit the Cheese Store and Tea Rooms
    Goat Island – the place to snorkel
    Tawharanui – secluded, white shores, well worth the drive

    Last but not least, we gotta talk about food…

    I’m not really into fine dining – which is just as well, since I don’t really earn an income commensurate to such tastes. For that kind of thing, I’ll refer you to Metro’s annual Top 50 list (of which I have visited six, and only been impressed by about half of those). I do like Cazador, which is sort of mid-scale but not super ritzy. My palate skews strongly Asian, though I do also adore Italian and Mexican – it’s just that the latter two are a LOT thinner on the ground here.

    For Chinese – try our de facto Chinatown along Dominion Rd is bursting with noodles and dumplings
    Malaysian – my favourite by miles is KK Malaysian in Epsom, but there are many other good ones
    Indian – tons of options again, I like Satya and for vegetarian fare, Jai Jalaram Khaman

    Ice cream – If you can find fresh fruit ice cream, say, on a random country road, go for it. But in Auckland, Kohu Rd has a cafe quite literally around the corner from our house, so I would consider it my civic duty to bring you there (give me an excuse!) and Giapo is pricey but tasty gelato right bang in the middle of Queen St in town.

    Seafood – The Auckland Fish Markets aren’t just a place to buy fresh fish – there’s a few restaurants there, too

    Finally, you should pay a visit to a humble neighbourhood bakery. No, not like The Fridge in Kingsland or Pyrenees in Mt Albert. You gotta get out into proper suburbia (as a guide, beyond the limits of the Outer Link bus route). I don’t think I can overstate how unfancy a typical suburban bakery is; you just have to experience it. Buy a mince and cheese (or steak) pie, and feel like a local as you eat it.

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  • RTW budget: A six-month trip recap for two people

    what it costs to travel around the world nzmuse rtw

    RTW BUDGET BREAKDOWN WHAT IT COSTS TO TRAVEL IN THE WORLD FOR 6 MONTHS

    I can’t lie. I was putting off crunching the numbers for this post for a long time.

    So, let’s get right to it!

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    Before we even left home, about $9477 had already gone into the trip (flights, insurance, Eurail passes, gear etc).

    And then we come to the actual costs incurred on the trip:

    ASIA

    For a little over a month in Asia, we spent about $3034, averaging $82 a day. I’d consider that a mid-level comfortable budget – we certainly didn’t deny ourselves anything (especially when it came to food and drink – it was our honeymoon, after all) but we didn’t stay in ritzy places or do anything super extravagant. We travelled by land – buses, trains – and took some taxis as well as hiring scooters. See also: individual country spending breakdowns for Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

    EUROPE

    For three months in Europe (with a week in the UK) we spent about $10,959 for a daily average of $117. I would consider this a comfortable backpacking budget. We were more conscious of our spending, but we ate well, slept reasonably comfortably, and spent probably about $1000, off the top of my head, on experiences (renting a BMW, canyoning, etc). We splurged more on food in Italy and Greece than in other places, and volunteered for food and board for a few weeks. Generally, we found hostels not good value as a couple and only ended up staying in dorms a handful of times – cheap hotels were our usual MO and we couchsurfed a few times.

    USA

    Alas, I don’t have exact data on our US spending as our iPhone crapped out right before the end of our trip. I do remember that we been averaging about $110 a day, so I’ll go with that and extrapolate that for the whole six weeks. That brings us to roughly $4840. Except for a few pricey nights on the east coast (Boston, WTF?), we mainly stayed in $40-50 motels or with incredibly generous and welcoming blog friends. We ate a TON of (good, cheap) Mexican food, BBQ, and at tiny diners. Can I just say: North America is the only region where even we had to admit portion defeat? Thank you for providing such excellent value for money. I would call this a frugal mid-level budget; we travelled in relative luxury, an American sedan (practically a truck by NZ standards) , splurged on Disneyland and hiring a motorbike.

    Read more: How we travelled the world without going into debt

    I also need to add on a few more transport costs to that: $751 on internal flights abroad (Hanoi-Bangkok, Edinburgh-Brussels, Rome-Paris) and $1968 for our one-way car rental in the US.

    If we exclude the personal shopping we did in the US (which I didn’t really track closely and isn’t really relevant to this tally), that adds up to just over:

    NZ $31,000

    I should note, of course, that this would be a little higher, as exchange rates in real life are rarely as favourable as those listed on xe.com, but it’s not a biggie. The NZ dollar was strong last year – one reason we travelled in 2013 – but it’ll never stand up to the USD, euro or the pound.

    Could you do it for less? Of course. Especially if you come from a country with a stronger currency (which I’m guessing is the majority of you). This was about extracting maximum enjoyment, not spending as little as possible. Otherwise we could have chosen to visit only cheap countries, camp (which I did consider, but campgrounds tend to be so out of the way and – like hostels – aren’t necessarily all that cheap), subsist only on bread and fruit, travelled more slowly (thus lowering our daily averages, though perhaps not our overall spend) and so on. I decided reasonably early on in the trip that I’d rather hustle harder to earn more and enjoy our travels than to focus on saving every dollar possible in order to make what we had last.



    Booking.com

     

    So this is about in line with what I’d expected, even if it is a slightly painful sum to swallow. If you exclude our initial outlay – flights, insurance, gear, etc – our daily costs on the road are essentially on par with what we’d spend just living our normal lives in NZ (and could even be lower if we stuck to cheap countries and splurged less). There’s only one thing I have any regrets about, and it’s paying to go on the London Eye. Aside from that, I feel it was all money well spent.

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  • Three Thing Thursday: What I wish I’d known about travel

    lake brienz grindelwald switzerland nzmuse

    Asia

    Sure, you can still find a meal for $1 in plenty of places. But if you have anything approaching a normal appetite/metabolism, you will need at least six of those meals a day.

    Europe

    If you’re spending a significant amount of time in Europe, it’s almost inevitable that you will get on the wrong train at some point. Accept it and deal with it!

    USA

    Yes, having a car is more of a headache than a boon when you get into the big cities, but if you happen to be road tripping across the country, weekends are actually best for visiting most major hubs. You’ll find cheap weekend parking deals in places like Boston, Chicago and San Francisco, but  affordable weekday parking is nigh on nonexistent.